�鶹�� Fund supports recreation of historic wave prediction machine

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A grant from the �鶹�� Fund, sustained by generous alumni donations and administered by the Development and Alumni Relations Office, has supported the School of Ocean Science in recreating Jack Derbyshire’s pioneering wave prediction machine.

Jack Derbyshire, originally from Blaenau Ffestiniog, played a crucial role in the development of wave prediction at the Admiralty Research Laboratory, where he created a machine to forecast wave conditions – an innovation that laid the foundation for modern Physical Oceanography. In 1963, he became the University’s first Professor of Physical Oceanography and is remembered for his groundbreaking insights into wave behaviour.

The aim of this project was to highlight Derbyshire’s key role in developing wave predictions techniques that supported the amphibious landings during World War II. This project was particularly timely, coinciding with the 80th Anniversary of the D-day landings last June. To mark the occasion, a simplified version of his wave analysis machine was created, designed to be accessible to both students and the public. The machine is accompanied by bilingual roll-up posters to explain the work.

Since its development, the replica machine has featured in news coverage of the D-Day anniversary, including online articles and television interviews. It has also been used at School and University alumni events. The machine serves as an educational tool to help students understand Fourier analysis - the method used to separate different period waves, which was crucial in predicting waves for the D-day landings. The machine and its accompanying posters boards are now permanently exhibited outside the seminar room at the School of Ocean Sciences.

Thanks to the �鶹�� Fund, we have built our own version of the wave analysis machine which is actively used to demonstrate oceanographic principles at Open Days. An electronic interface is currently in development, which will further enhance its use in undergraduate oceanography teaching.”

Prof Tom Rippeth, Professor of Physical Oceanography